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Locals will say that Tulum’s best breakfast tacos can be found about a 10-minute drive from the hotel strip at Taquería Honorio, a divey, sort of makeshift place with serious cochinita pibil — a fragrant regional Yucatán pork dish that’s slow cooked with orange, achiote, and other spices like cumin, cinnamon, and allspice. In plain view, cooks throw wads of masa onto flat tops, yielding thick, rustic tacos which they slap with proteins (pork or beef). Keep in mind, though, that this is a breakfast spot, and the day is done at 1:30 p.m. [$]


In Tulum, find a rainbow of paletas (try Flor de Michoacan a rainbow of fruity ice pops) and sugar-free, vegan ice cream (try the retro Las Bolas de Posture), but for the city’s best scoops, Campanella Cremerie is the move. Part coffee house, part gelateria, Campanella offers a medley of gelato and sorbet in flavors like dulce de leche, pineapple-basil, and yogurt with strawberries. Beyond cups and cones there’s a whole list of composed ice cream bowls, a slew of waffles decorated with fruit, coconut, and nuts, and a couple of savory sandwiches. [$]


Fans of Hartwood’s minimalist wood-fired cookery will want to explore Kitchen Table, which follows a similar culinary directive. Located further down the hotel zone across from Mezzanine, one large palapa shields a smattering of wooden tables at which diners sample a concise list of five simply grilled local proteins from the land and sea. Start with the excellent huitlacoche quesadilla plus a seasonal fruit cocktail, then move on to charred octopus and beef. [$$$]


Posada Margherita, Tulum’s most famous Italian number, is situated within a beachside hotel of the same name. To fully soak in the unobstructed ocean view, try dropping by before sunset — whether for lunch or an early dinner. Try Posada’s great assortment of focaccias, served with Parmesan chunks and pickled cauliflower, save room for the housemade pasta, often dressed with local vegetables and seafood. Protip: Posada Margherita doesn’t accept credit cards, so pesos are required. [$$$]


At Diego Hernández Baquedano’s Valle de Guadalupe restaurant Corazón de Tierra, the chef plates manicured Baja cuisine that has earned him a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. But his jungle abode, MurMur, takes a decidedly more rustic approach. Embracing the Yucatán’s indigenous ingredients, MurMur highlights simple, seasonal Mexican fare, like a soup of chicken and hoja santa, and grilled octopus in salsa verde. Don’t miss his unctuous Yucatan pork served with corn tortillas and a pumpkin-seed sauce — they’re the best pork tortillas in the hotel zone. [$$$$]


hot spots

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